Malbec
One of the traditional "Bordeaux
varietals", Malbec has characteristics that fall somewhere
between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A midseason ripener,
it can bring very deep color, ample tannin, and a particular
plum-like flavor component to add complexity to claret blends.
Outside Bordeaux it is known
as Côt and, in Cahors, also as Auxerrois.
There are in fact hundreds of local synonyms, since Malbec
at one time was widely planted in nearly every area of France. Sensitivity
to frost and proclivity to shatter
or coulure
are the primary reasons Malbec has become a decreasing factor
in most of France. Although plantings in the Medoc have decreased
by over two-thirds since the mid-twentieth century, Malbec
is now the dominant red varietal in the Cahors area. The Appellation
Controlée regulations for Cahors require a minimum
content of 70%.
Malbec truly comes into its
own in Argentina, where it is the major red varietal planted.
Much of the Malbec vines there were transplanted from Europe
prior to the outbreak of phylloxera
and most is therefore ungrafted, planted on their own roots. Sadly,
over the years, phylloxera has infested Argentina, too, and vineyards
are now being replanted on resistant rootstock.
Argentines often spell it "Malbeck"
and make wines from it that similar in flavor to those made
in Europe, but with softer, lusher structure, more like New
World Merlot. Another difference: where French examples are
usually considered short-lived, Argentine Malbecs seem to
age fairly well.
Malbec is also planted in Chile,
and there's relatively little and recent acreage in California
and Australia. It is usually blended with other red varietals
in these countries.
Successful Argentine Malbec
growers claim that, in order to develop full maturity and
distinction, Malbec needs "hang time" even after sugar levels
indicate ripeness. Otherwise, immature Malbec can be very
"green" tasting, without its characteristic notes of plum
and anise.
Jim
LaMar
