Merlot
Merlot is to the American wine consumer in the 1990s as "burgundy"
was in the 70s: the new generic red. A "boom" in wine
consumption, combined with the consumer trend to move away
from generic wine blends and into varietals, stimulated plantings
of "new," as well as "proven" wine grapes in California during
the '70s. Merlot did not appear as a California varietal label
until the end of the decade and was not a big seller until
the end of the '80s. Less than 2,000 acres existed in California
in 1985; there are over 50,000 acres in 2003.
Merlot is by
far the most widely planted grape of the entire
Bordeaux region and third, behind
carignan and grenache as the most planted black
variety in France. However, it has a starring
role in only one region, historically, north of
Bordeaux's Gironde River, where it is the basis
of the wines of St. Emilion and
Pomerol. Château Petrus, which has
risen in consumer stature in the past three
decades, is over 90% Merlot. South of the
Gironde, however, merlot usually plays a
supporting role in typical Medoc blends
with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc.
Château Palmer in the medoc is about 60%
Merlot.
Because merlot ripens at least
a week earlier than either cabernet variety, it is "vineyard
insurance" where rains are a factor at harvest. The best quality
merlot grows in rocky, arid ground, but is fairly adaptable
and grows better than the cabernets in clay-based soils, even
in damp, cool climates. Since merlot both buds and flowers
early, growers' main worry is susceptibility to shatter
or coulure, brought about by frost, rain, or early
heatwaves in the Spring. The berry of merlot is relatively
thin-skinned and somewhat prone to rot.
Merlot
is moderately vigorous in vine growth, but must sometimes
be reined in from setting too large of a crop by judicious
pruning, often followed weeks later by cluster thinning. Merlot
on fertile soil may produce eight tons per acre, but best
fruit quality is gained if the crop is kept at six tons per
acre or less. Merlot's tendencies towards both shatter and
over-cropping are paradoxical. Careful selection of both clone
and site can avoid this problem, as shatter is more serious
in colder climates.
While
its flavor profile is similar to Cabernet Sauvignon1,
Merlot tends to be less distinctive and slightly more herbaceous
overall in both aroma and taste. Ripeness seems critical;
both under ripe and overripe grapes lean away from fruit and
towards herbaceousness. Merlot has slightly lower natural
acidity than Cabernet and generally less astringency, therefore
usually a more lush mouth-feel.
The most
frequent, but not exclusive, aromas and flavors
typically found in Merlot include:
|
Typical
Merlot Smell and/or Flavor
Descriptors
|
|
Varietal
Aromas/Flavors:
|
Processing
Bouquets/Flavors:
|
|
Fruit:
currant, black cherry, plum
|
Oak
(light): vanilla, coconut, sweet
wood
|
|
Floral:
violet, rose
|
Oak
(heavy): oak, smoke, toast,
tar
|
|
Spice:
caramel, clove, bay leaf, green
peppercorn
|
Bottle
Age: truffle, mushroom, earth,
coffee,leather, cedar, cigar
box
|
|
Herbal:
bell pepper, green olive
|
.
|
Earlier than
Cabernet Sauvignon to mature in bottle, Merlot
is held in higher esteem by wine drinkers than
by wine collectors.
Syrah is
richer and darker, Pinot Noir lighter and more
velvety, but Merlot has become the darling red
wine. Is it because the consumer finds Merlot
easy-to-drink or is it perhaps, because Merlot
is easy-to-say? I'll have a glass of Merlot,
please, while I think about it.
by
Jim
LaMar
NOTES
1. A
recent study by an analytical chemist at the University of Bordeaux
determined that the flavor distinction between Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot was possibly due to the grapes containing different
amounts of one chemical: 4-hyroxy-2,5- dimethylfuran-3(2H)-1,
or HDMF. Four times the level of HDMF in Merlot accounted for
a more pronounced "caramel" flavor, according to the panel of
expert taster subjects, who graded nine samples on the relative
strength of 12 aroma categories. BACK
