Barbera
Barbera is an
ancient variety with its historical roots in
Italy, where today it remains the second most
widely planted red variety, after Sangiovese.
The highest
quality Barberas come from the Piedmont region,
where fifteen times more acreage is devoted to
it than to Nebbiolo. Barbera d'Asti and
Barbera del Monferrato each produce about
three times as much wine as Barbera
d'Alba. Colli Toronesi is produced in
such small quantities it is rarely found outside
its own region. Barbera is also produced in
Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna and Sardinia. Barbera
is also grown in Slovenia and is the fifth most
widely planted variety in California.
Barbera vines are popular
with growers, vigorous and reliably productive in a wide variety
of soils and also highly resistant to fungal diseases. The
fruit is naturally high in acid, which it retains very well,
even in hot climates. Barbera grapes are also high in anthocyanins,
but only low to moderate in tannin content. The resulting
wines are deep, purplish black in their youth, but tend to
early browning and lightening as they age. Tannin from oak
aging can help somewhat to stabilize color.
Although normally indistinct
in aroma, when cultivated in temperate areas and cropped for
quality, Barbera can exhibit an attractive ripe aroma of red
fruit, currants or blackberries that can be enhanced by vanilla,
smoky or toasty notes added by barrel aging. On the other
hand, neutral aroma, high color and acidity are all good characteristics
for blending with other grapes and this is how Barbera is
most frequently used.
Most
California Barbera is grown in the Central
Valley and finds its way into generic or
proprietary blends. The Sierra Foothills, Paso
Robles, Santa Clara and Sonoma, where very warm
days are moderated by cool nights, produce some
of the state's best varietal
Barberas.
Jim
LaMar
