Spicy
Long-Bean Beef Stir Fry
SERVE
WITH:
Riesling
/ Gewürztraminer
/ Chenin
Blanc
Drinking Riesling with
beef? Am I nuts? Well, not this time, but thanks for
asking. This situation arose through a circumstantial
combination of events that became serendipitous, only in
retrospect. It's about making do with what's available
and the willingness to take culinary risks, but mostly
about the importance of matching the wine to the
spices and sauce, rather than the critter.
Bonny Doon 1998
"Pacific Rim" Riesling was my personal favorite at our
Riesling
tasting in
August, 1999. So I bought and stashed a couple of
bottles, thinking about trout, my favorite Riesling
match... I got impatient (so what's new?), waiting for
trout season, not to mention a beneficent fisherman and
trout cleaner, and mixed impulse (the availability of
Chinese Long Beans) with practicality (sirloin in the
fridge). As it worked out, this menu comes a close second
to perfect riesling harmonics, but is not quite as
"special" as trout.
One of my favorite
fresh vegetables is Chinese Long Beans. They're a PITA to
grow, because the bugs love them too, so, I've given up
the home-grown route and instead keep my eyes open for
their occasional appearance in the supermarket. They're
different in appearance, taste and texture from other
green bean varieties. Each dark green pod is about
18"-24" long with a wrinkled, semi-dried look. They have
a firm texture and a taste that is nuttier and less
vegetative than it's cousins. I think the key, however,
is the wrinkles. Like "radiatore" pasta, the folds soak
up sauce, so each bite is a medley of the recipe flavors.
When the market has them, I buy, regardless of any prior
menu arrangements or plans...
There is some
flexibility in this recipe. It may be adjusted for
personal carnivorous preference (chicken works, too), as
well as individual sensitivity to stinking roses and
capuscan. Dried powders of garlic or ginger are woefully
inadequate substitutions. If you can't get fresh, make
something else. The dish is best with pan-fried boiled
noodles or rice. Takes about 30 minutes to
prepare.
•1 to 2 lbs.
Chinese long beans
• 1 to 2 Tbs. frying oil
• 2 to 4 cloves fresh garlic
• 1 medium onion
• 1 stalk celery
• 1 rasher of good-quality bacon
• 1/2 to 3 Tbs. Oriental Chili paste
• 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger (2-inch piece)
• 1 to 2 lbs. sirloin steak
• 1/4 cup flavorful broth or wine for de-glazing
• lime wedges for garnish
Boil 2 quarts of water.
Trim 1/4" from the bean ends, then slice into 2-inch
pieces and blanch in boiling water for 8-12 minutes until
tender, but still firm. When beans are done, drain
completely and add cold water (ice is okay, too), to stop
cooking and retain color. Set beans aside. Peel and
finely mince garlic cloves. Cut onion into wedges. Slice
celery into 3/4" diagonal chunks. Peel and finely mince
ginger. Slice bacon strip into 1/4" pieces. Slice steak
across the grain into thin (1/8") strips. High-heat oil
(peanut for flavor or canola for reduced saturated fat)
in large fry pan or wok. Add garlic, onion, celery and
bacon, fry one-two minutes, tossing or stirring every few
seconds, until vegetables are soft and bacon crisp.
Reduce heat to medium, add ginger, steak and continue
stirring. Just when the steak loses its pink, add the
beans and chili paste. Stir or toss two-three minutes
more. Add the de-glazing liquid and turn off heat. Stir
well, allow most of the steam to escape and the liquid to
reduce and thicken slightly. Serve over rice or noodles.
Squeeze 1/4 lime over each portion. Made with one pound
each of long beans and steak, supplemented by rice, the
recipe should serve two to three and is wonderful with
dry to off-dry Rieslings
(and probably would fare well with Gewürztraminer
or Chenin
Blanc as
well).
by
Jim
LaMar
WINE
& FOOD
TOP
