Don't you just love
David & Goliath stories? Especially when it comes to
an inexpensive David wine that kno¢ks off the
expen$ive Goliath$? Now and then it happens and this was
one of those times. Of late, we've noticed many of the
bargains to be found in red wine often have a Rhône
connection. Just what is the connection of this
Petite Sirah grape, anyway, that is only made by
California wineries? Could be Durif, so we tasted
one of these -- from Australia -- as well; and it fared
well, too. Apparently the origin and true identity of
this "varietal" is not an issue (see Petite
Sirah varietal
profile) that concerns the BATF regulators, nor does
their label approval division seem to have a preferred
spelling ... Que Sirah, Syrah? Be mindful that
controversy divided the panelists along love/hate sides
in the Valley of the Jolly Green Giant. Wines that lacked
any herbaceous or vegetal elements, or those most subtly
incorporating them, survived the battle.
Wines are considered
Equal Quality
Within Categories of Recommendation
(Listed
Alphabetically by Brand)
consensus
terms appear in bold (possible flaws? are in brackets)
* indicates a second or third party
WEBSITE
HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED
Bogle
Petite Sirah
2000 California
Dark plum purple;
lots of young, bright, ripe black cherry and berry
fruit aromas with honeysuckle, prune, and
traces of oak, butter, vanilla, and cedar;
clean, pleasant, gentle, fresh and jammy-roasted
fruit flavors of plum and prune with some black
pepper spice (rubber?); medium body, fleshy, round,
good mouth feel; good balance,
slightly low acid; fairly long and pleasant finish,
faintly bitter, but without intense tannin. 13.5%
alc. This is a very well made wine that maintains
exemplary varietal character, while crafted in a
clean, simple, easy-drinking style and offered at a
reasonable price ... stock up! ($9)
BEST
BUYWEBSITE
Stanton
& Killeen Durif
"Moodemere
Red" 1997
Rutherglen,
Victoria, Australia
Dark purple with
brick edge; complex, somewhat earthy, leesy
(slightly off-putting to some tasters), black
pepper, coffee bean, muted fruit, developing later
into very fragrant violet and
herbaceous aromas, with some oak, cedar
and faint volatile acidity; appealing, but
light flavors of sweet blackberry and cherry
fruit with prune, a slight bit of smoke, and some
oxidation; medium body; very good balance, slightly
tart, astringent; light tannins, in a long,
pleasant finish. 14.4% alc. Aged 18 months in
American and German oak puncheons. There may be
some controversy to the appeal of the complex
"old style" nose of this wine, but it's hard
not to like the flavors that lean way over in the
direction of drink-now deliciousness. ($24)
*
WEBSITE
RECOMMENDED
David
Bruce Petite Syrah
1999 Central
Coast
Dark plum purple;
complex, effusive aromas mingle cedar, wood,
eucalyptus, herbs, asparagus, flowers, mild
berries, smoke, meat and
butter; clean, deep, mildly grapey, peppery,
delicious, straightforward, but slightly vegetal
and low on varietal fruit (unripe?), flavors;
medium to full body, slightly rich;
well-balanced (flat?); quite tannic,
with a little bite in the long, very dry finish.
13.5% alc. Grapes from Paso Robles and southern
Monterey. There is a certain, but out-of-context,
unexpected elegance to this wine, as Bob described
it: "a lady amongst brutes." ($16) WEBSITE
Trentadue Petite Sirah
1998
Alexander
Valley ESTATE
Medium-dark
garnet-edged purple; pleasant, complex aroma has
distinct blackberry varietal fruit,
honeysuckle, caramel, green olive, some
spicy American oak and cedar, with
alcohol, slightly leesy, and earthy smells; big,
ripe fruit, jam, brown sugar and cedar flavors;
medium body; good balance (slightly
flabby?); finishes short, but with hard
tannins, faintly tarry and bitter. 14.1% alc.
Blended with a small percentage of Zinfandel. Some
bottle age will probably take off the edges and
reveal a very nice, easy-drinking wine. ($18)
WEBSITE
Turley
Petite Syrah 1999
Napa Valley,
Rattlesnake Acres
Very
dark-inky plum purple; "new wine" nose,
young, but weak fruit, with only hints of plums,
black cherries, licorice, pencil shavings,
smoke, bell pepper, alcohol, in the mostly oaky
aroma; clean, fat, simple, youthful,
uncomplicated flavors suggest jam, horehound candy;
medium to full body; uneven balance with very big,
firm, slightly rough tannins; long
finish is dry, hot, oaky, and slightly bitter.
14.5% alc. We may get accused, by this wine's fans
and collectors, of infanticide for tasting this
wine so young; it is no doubt the prime candidate
here for a few more years of cellar rest to become
calm and collected. ($40) WEBSITE
TASTED
J.C.
Cellars Petite Syrah
1998 Napa
Valley,
Frediani Vineyard
Inky plum purple;
some varietal fruit mingles with honey,
allspice,herbs, toast, oak, flint, a slightstink, some volatile acidity, and medicinal
elements in the aromas (cough syrup, spray
starch?); odd, sour cherry flavor with hints of tar
and chocolate; medium to full body;slightly
rich, but off-balance, sour, acetic, and
acidic; quite tannic, dry,
woody, uneven, not flavorful finish. 14.2%
alc. Only 125 cases were produced from 80 to
100-year-old vines. Our previous experiences with
red "Rhône" varietals under this brand have
been liked much better; quite disappointing. ($31)
WEBSITE
Markham Petite Sirah
1998 Napa
Valley
Very dark plum
purple; clean, floral, candy-like sweetness in
muted, low-fruit aromas with hints of prune,
spice, asparagus, dill, smoke, and barely
noticeable mustiness in the background; seems
young, flavors are asparagus, dill, smoke, brown
sugar, appealing, but lacking fruit, seems
hollow in the middle; body; balance; hard,
astringent tannins, somewhat rough,
uneven, slightly hot finish. 13.5% alc. A charred
steak and some bitter greens would probably quickly
tame this wine's snappy nature; a couple of years
in the cellar might calm it down, too. ($25)
WEBSITE
Mirassou
Petite Sirah 1997
Monterey
County, "Harvest Reserve"
Dark
garnet-purple; initial petrol and manure stink
(hydrogen sulfide?), turns later to alfalfa, cooked
asparagus, raw beet juice, raisin, and weak
fruit aromas with underlying traces of
anise, tobacco, herbs; weak fruit,
brash, slightly spicy flavors with alfalfa, anise,
spearmint, and oak (medicinal, rubber band?);
medium body; balance off, tart, sour; medium
long, very dry, slightly astringent, but not
very tannic finish. 13.5% alc. This wine exhibits
under ripe fruit, exuberant pressing; seems tired
and holds little promise of waking up. ($16)
WEBSITE
This
Panel
included Regulars Deanna, Glenn, Bob, Jon,
Ray, Tammy, Jim, and Betsy and Guest
Steve
About
Petite Sirah