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RIESLINGS
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RIESLINGS
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September
10, 2001 Upstairs Downtown
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We sampled a fair
representation of appellations, with all wines falling
into the dry to off-dry style range. The most important
and valid lesson to be learned from these wine reviews is
that, regardless of the appellation or brand, drink those
Rieslings young! Perfect storage or cellar conditions may
help to preserve them, but if you're selecting from a
store shelf, pick fresh: within a year or two of the
vintage! For appropriate accompaniment, Roy conjured up a
braised pork shoulder stew with rice vinegar, pears,
Russian fingerling potatoes, baby carrots, cabbage,
onions and Moroccan seasonings that was terrific and
effectively rescued some wines that were teetering on the
brink of the dump bucket.
Wines are judged
Equal Within Categories of Recommendation and listed
Alphabetically by Brand
Brand
Vintage Varietal or
"Name"
Appellation,
Vineyard
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TASTING
NOTES: Color;
aroma; flavor; body;
balance; finish, alcohol %. Summary. ($
paid)
KEY:
consensus
(flaws?)
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VERY HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED
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Eroica
2000 Riesling
Columbia
Valley, WA
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Pale yellow; very
fragrant with slate, mineral and sweet, fruity,
green apple, pear, peach, lychee and
very floral, honeysuckle aromas; clean,
elegant, very light apple fruit flavors; light body
with a lively touch of spritz; rich, good
balance; pleasant, crisp finish, 12%.
Very clean, refreshing, completely appealing and
easy to drink, although a little atypical and a
little pricey. ($19)
Produced
as a joint venture between Washington's Ch. St.
Michelle & Dr. Loosen of Germany.
WEBSITE
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Greenwood
Ridge
2000 Riesling
Estate
Bottled, Mendocino Ridge
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Very pale yellow;
clean, bright, typical, sweet tropical, apricot,
peach, candied fruit, floral and mineral
aromas; off-dry, rich, big,
mouth-filling apricot, pineapple, peach and
mineral flavors; medium body, lively, faint
effervescence; good balance; quite a clean,
long finish, 12.5%. This winery consistently
makes exemplary and enjoyable Riesling that fairly
shouts California and ripeness. ($11.50)
WEBSITE
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HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED
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Ch.
Benoit
2000 Riesling
Willamette
Valley, OR
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Very pale green;
faint aroma suggests pears, peaches, Granny
Smith apples, citrus, grapefruit, bubble gum
or gum drops, sealing wax and minerals,
unfortunately with also some rotten egg
(blows off in 4-6 minutes); nice, simple flavors,
fruity, green apple, honey and citric; light
body; good balance, slightly low
acid; clean, dry finish, 10.5%. Once this wine
airs out a little, there are some nice, albeit
subtle aromas and flavors. ($10.50)
WEBSITE
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Ch.
St. Jean
2000
Johannisberg
Riesling
Sonoma
County
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Pale
green-yellow; clean, muted, fruity, pear,
peach, green apple, pineapple, slightly
floral, faintly honeyed, dried fruit or
caramel aroma; clean, sappy, fresh, fruity pear and
apricot flavors, slightly sweet; light body,
faint spritz; tangy, very good
balance; crisp, clean, grapefruity finish,
12.5%. Another winery with a consistent history of
excellent and tasty Rieslings, although this
vintage seems particularly delicate. ($10.50)
WEBSITE
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RECOMMENDED
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Bonny
Doon
1999 "Pacific Rim"
Riesling
California,
Washington, Germany
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Pale yellow; old,
earthy, petrol, mineral and muted, very vague,
delicate pear, nectarine, perfume and floral
aromas; somewhat bland, quite dry flavors;
lean, light body; well-structured,
tart balance, faint bitterness;
finish, 13%. We have liked this wine much better on
previous occasions and from previous vintages; this
one seems fatigued, bland, unfocused, losing its
fruit stamina. The unique package still has
amusement value; look for more recent vintages.
($8) BEST
BUY
WEBSITE
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Hogue
1999 Riesling
Columbia
Valley,
WA
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Pale yellow;
clean, complex, steely, slate, fruity,
citric, floral-green, lemon grass or
geranium aromas; sweet peachy entry, dry with
light, tight, simple, slightly
minerally, petrol flavors; light to medium
body; tart, good balance; slightly
astringent, drying finish, 12.5%. Another light
example of Riesling, but also fairly easy to quaff
and a great bargain. ($6)
BEST
BUY
WEBSITE
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J.
Lohr
1999 White
Riesling
Monterey,
Bay Mist
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Pale yellow;
clean, light, pleasantly fruity, pear,
apple, apricot, peach and floral aromas with
hints of honey and minerals; sweet
flavors are bubble-gum, kool-aid, vaguely
suggest apple or pear, but could frankly use
more fruit; light body; sound balance, may be
slightly low acid; turns slightly
bitter in the not too lingering finish, 10.5%.
Although this wine was reasonably pleasant, it was
also not very vibrant and somewhat of a
disappointment from this generally reliable
producer. ($8) BEST
BUY
WEBSITE
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TASTED
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Dr.
Weins-Prüm
1998 Riesling -
Kabinett
Wehlener-Sonnenur,
Mosel
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Medium
yellow-gold; smoky-musty, oak,
petrol, mineral aromas over muted apricot
fruit with a touch of vegetable and rotten
egg; sweet, muted, wispy flavors; very
light body, watery; austere, tart balance;
sweet-tart, sticky finish, 8%. This wine may have
been delicious a year or two year back but it's
very delicate style is fading fast; saved on this
occasion by the braised pork stew. ($14)
*WEBSITE
- in German
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Dr.
von Bassermann-Jordan
1998 Riesling,
Q.b.A.
Pfalz,
Rhein
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Medium
green-gold; very light fruit, candy and flinty,
minerally, petrol or sweaty aromas with
faint matchstick (and possibly
mercaptan?); dry, lean, somewhat
steely, minerally flavors; good mouth feel
with rich, slightly oily body; tart
(sour?), well-balanced; long
finish, 11.5%. This wine, in slightly better
condition than the Mosel, was also greatly assisted
by the stew. Controversial; those that ranked it
high were offset by tasters that labeled this wine
"unripe" and ranked it low; one of those
love or hate wines. ($8)
WEBSITE
n/a
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NOT
RECOMMENDED
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Fess
Parker
1999 White
Riesling
Santa Barbara
County
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Medium
yellow-gold; apricot, grapefruit, Botrytis,
minerals, faint petrol or rubber in the
somewhat grassy, musty, tanky aromas; weak, older,
earthy, slightly oxidized flavors with mineral or
metallic hints; light body with oily texture;
flabby balance; apricot bitterness and
slight heat in the finish, 12%. Although
complex, this wine is tired, has seen better
days and may have been stored too warm. Too bad,
Fess (you're still our hero) ... ($12)
WEBSITE
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This
Panel
included Regulars Mark, Deanna, Glenn, Bob,
Roy,Marlene, Jon, Jim, Betsy, Ron and James
Websites
marked * are third-party information.
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