VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Josmeyer
1998
Pinot Gris
Alsace, FR

Straw color; complex aromas of flowers, honeysuckle, mint, fig, apricot, citrus, tangerine, flint and mineral are inviting, but unusual; ripe apricot, pear and vanilla flavors are also slightly herbal, earthy; medium body with some roundness and richness; excellent balance, maybe slightly low in acid; touch of spice or heat in the medium-long finish, 14%. Very complex and intriguing; not quite on point but delicious in it's minor eccentricities. ($22) Josmeyer

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Hugel
1998
Tokay
Pinot Gris
Alsace, FR
"Tradition"

Pale gold; classic aromas mix flowers, orange blossom, muscat, ripe tropical fruit, apricot, citrus, and pear with hints of oak, spice, flint and petroleum; fruit-forward, orange peel, lemon, grapefruit, litchi, honey and green apple flavors; light body with roundness and a pleasant mouthfeel; good balance is just slightly tart; finish is long, clean, mouthwatering, spicy,yet delicate, 12.5%. Exemplary and very yummy. ($23.50) Hugel

RECOMMENDED

Benessere
2000
Pinot Grigio
Napa-Carneros

Very pale straw; *complex, fruit and herbal aromas with some whispers of oak, mild spice, salsa-pepper, ethyl acetate, matchstick and funk; fruity, bubble gum, peach, citric, grapefruit, lemon-lime and mineral flavors; light body is nearly vacant; zingy, tart balance; finishes very long, but slightly hot, 14%. *There was some controversy about the aroma of this wine; some tasters thought it was "big and ripe," while others thought "vinous and reduced" described it more accurately. "Benessere" means "well-being" or "prosperity" in Italian. ($20) Benessere

Handley
2000
Pinot Gris
Anderson
Valley
(Mendocino)

Bright light pink "gris"; sweet, bubble gum, floral, ripe tropical citrus, pear, peach, strawberry and cherry aromas; ripe pear, apple and apricot, very fruity, almost rosé-like flavors with a hint of caramel; light to medium and slightly oily body with maybe a touch of CO₂; slightly sweet, but balanced with crisp acidity; lightly spicy, long finish, 14.2%. As suggested on the wine's back label, this wine would nicely compliment dishes flavored with cumin or ginger. ($16) Handley

"J"
2000
Pinot Gris
Russian
River
Valley

Straw; clean, simple, very light apple, pear, citrus, orange or strawberry fruit and new sweet vanilla oak aromas with an earthy, spicy, nutty, almond, or peach pit quality; clean, lean, light flavors are lemon or green apple and fruitier and more in balance than oaky nose would indicate; faintly sweet, soft balance; quick finish, 12.5%. Pleasant, somewhat restrained style might be swamped by fruit and cheese or strong sauces, but would be excellent with trout, fresh oysters, or shrimp cocktail. ($16) J Winery

Morgan
2000
Pinot Gris
Santa Lucia Highlands,
R&D Franscioni Vineyard

Straw, slightly hazy appearance; clean, very fruity aromas of citrus, melon, pears and floral hints of orange blossom, honeysuckle, litchi, anise and vanilla; citrus, grapefruity, mineral flavors are simple, somewhat thin, need fruit; light body; very tart balance tastes a little too strongly of tartaric acid, aspirin; long finish, 13.5%. This wine has some nice character and its tartness could either be buffered with a rich, butter or cream sauced dish, or masked with a lemony preparation. ($14) Morgan

Trimbach
1998
Pinot Gris
"Reserve"
Alsace, FR

Straw; light, closed-in honey, tropical, coconut, anise, citrus, lime, peach, green apple and terpine, petrol aromas; bubble gum, peach, pear, apple, lemon-lime, grapefruit and mineral flavors are quite tasty, spicy and savory, if also quite light and beginning to show age; light body; balance is apply-tart; some tasters described the finish as "elegant," some as "plain" or "none," 13%. This well-made, light and delicate style wine is also reasonably-priced. ($15) (NO web site)

TASTED

Byron
1999
Pinot Gris
Santa Maria Valley, Estate

Brilliant light straw; oaky, smoky, buttery, slightly citric, green apple, honey and orange peel aromas are also a little funky and musty with matchstick and mercaptan (Brettanomyces?); simple, resinous, slightly tropical fruity flavors also repeat the oaky-smoky theme; not much backbone; crisp, slightly tart balance; long, slightly hot finish, 13.5%. The fruit in this wine is drowned by too much winemaking technique and the liberal use of oak. ($20) (NO web site)

Eola Hills
1999
Pinot Gris
Oregon

Color is an orange-pink "gris"; mostly one-note toasty, oaky aroma hints at apples, slate, minerals; slightly fruity, lemon, dried straw and mineral flavors are also dominated by woody, astringent oak tannins and pucker; oily body; balance is angular, lean, sweet and tart; oak carries into tight, wet stone finish, 13.7%. Fatiguing to drink; it's possible that lumberjacks and quarrymen might enjoy its charms. ($13) Eola Hills

NOT RECOMMENDED

Santa Sofia
1999
Pinot Grigio
Valdadige, Vigneto Fratte, IT

Very pale; big, off-putting stench of mercaptan and rotten egg takes 30 minutes or more of air to become approachable (Brettanomyces and oxidized, too?); wet dog and citric, bitter, baby aspirin flavors; finish needs a chaser, 12%. There were very few comments on taste -- most panelists thought this wine was just too nasty-smelling and would rather flush it than taste it. ($10.50) (NO web site)