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CHARDONNAY $15-30
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CHARDONNAY
$15-30
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September
18, 2000 Old Doc's Discount
Liquors
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Although
we tossed any notions of appellation or vintage and
decided to judge Chardonnay on price worthiness in the
mid-to-premium range, we ended up with an all-California
line-up and had examples that both undershot and overshot
our price range. The panelists considerably
preferred the top four finishers (average price
$19.25)...one even earned "BEST
BUY"
honors...to the bottom five, which tend to have
Quality/Price Ratios that seem to favor producers (avg.
$25.70), rather than consumers.
Moral:
Don't judge quality by price; you may pay too much for
too little!
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Brand
Varietal
or Proprietary Type Vintage
& Appellation
$ price - alcohol
content
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Compilation
Tasting Notes
(bold
type = consensus; ? = flaw?)
[technique,
if known]
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#Rank
Buying
Advice
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Solitude
1999
Chardonnay
Carneros
"Sangiacomo"
$23. - 14.4%
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Medium
straw; complex, peach pie, tropical, and
grapefruit aromas with rich, toasty, honey,
and vanilla bouquet; sweet entry, ripe, tropical,
pineapple, well-integrated fruit
flavors with noticeable oak; full
body, tart, crisp balance;
very clean, long finish with
faintly harsh echoes of oak; seemingly high
alcohol surprisingly unobtrusive.
[French
oak barrel-fermented, 100% malolactic & lees
contact]
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#1
Very
Highly
Recommended
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Dehlinger
1998
Chardonnay ESTATE
Russian
River Valley
$23. -
14.1%
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Medium
straw; complex, fresh, ripe peach and hay
aromas with butterscotch, sweet cream,
vanilla, toast, spice, and a slightly musty
bouquet; oaky entry, rich, citrussy,
deep fruit flavors; crisp acidity,
good balance; medium-long,
slightly harsh (metallic?) finish.
May improve with a few months bottle age.
[unfiltered]
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#2
Very
Highly
Recommended
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Thomas
Fogarty
1998
Chardonnay
Monterey
$18. - 13%
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Medium-dark
yellow; complex, very ripe, lemon,
pear and pineapple fruit aromas with spicy,
resin (v.a.?), vanilla, caramel and
barrel-fermentation bouquet; rich,
woody, smoky, leesy flavors dominate floral,
lemon, apple, pear, and fig fruit
flavors; very smooth, round, creamy
texture with nice harmony (fat?); smooth,
medium-long finish, lingering oak with a
faint bitterness. May improve.
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#3
Highly
Recommended
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Estancia
1998
Chardonnay
Monterey
"Pinnacles"
$13. - 13.5%
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Dark
straw; sweet, straightforward, ripe
tropical, pineapple, nectarine
fruit aromas with sweet butter bouquet;
fresh, charming, citrus, and stone fruit
flavors with spice, honeysuckle, and barely
noticeable wood; slightly rich, tart,
crisp balance; clean, finish fades. Easy to
drink now. [aged
sur-lie, 7 months in French and American
oak]
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#4
Highly
Recommended
BEST
BUY
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Pine
Ridge
1997
Chardonnay
"Dijon Clones"
Napa
Valley - Carneros
$22.50 - 13.8%
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Dark
straw; light apple and pineapple fruit
aroma, touch of vanilla, toasted almond, and
ginger spice; light, tart, lemon,
green fruit flavors, very little oak (cedar?);
elegant style, good balance; slightly bitter,
medium-long finish.
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#5
Recommended
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Beringer
1995
Chardonnay
PRIVATE RESERVE
Napa
Valley
$35. - 13.4%
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Medium-dark
yellow; low-fruit lemony aroma with
barrel-fermented, leesy, hazelnut,
perfumed, faintly sherried (oxidation?) bouquet;
mature flavors (bacon?), mask pineapple,
tropical fruit, seems flat, flabby; fairly
rich, creamy texture; woody, faintly
harsh finish. The end is near---chill well and
drink up. [aged
sur lie, 9 months in French oak]
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#6
Recommended
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Steele
1998
Chardonnay "CUVEE"
California
$20. - 13%
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Medium
yellow; peach, melon, apple, tropical and bubble
gum aromas are somewhat rich with a touch of
spicy oak and an initial stench that
dissipates; good mouthfeel and ripeness to
the lemony fruit flavors; smooth, but
slight heat offsets balance; long,
slightly hot finish.
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#7
Recommended
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Long
Vineyards
1997
Chardonnay
Russian River "Seghesio"
$21. - 13%
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Medium
straw; ripe tropical aroma with a faint (filter
pad? butyl?) stench; lots of pleasant
upfront oak flavors mask fig-like
fruit; thin, low acidity; fairly
long, rough, faintly harsh finish.
[fermented
and aged in new French Taransaud
barrels]
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#8
Not
Recommended
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Chalk
Hill
1997
Chardonnay
ESTATE
Chalk
Hill, Sonoma County
$30. - 13.5%
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Medium
yellow; heavy oak aroma with low fruit gives
impression of much older wine, funky,
initial matchstick (SO2);
somewhat harsh entry, ponderously woody,
faint fruit, almost bland flavors with some
tannin harshness; oily with a hollow center;
long finish echoes wood. Not pleasant. (Very
disappointing showing for this Wine Spectator 1999
TOP 100 List wine - could this be a [too]
late bottling?)
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#9
Not
Recommended
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This
Panel
included Regulars Mark, Deanna,
Glenn,
Roy, Marlene, Jon, Ray, Jim, & James
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